Would you drink pure foam? Czech beer goes viral yet again
A recent article in The New York Times sparked a debate about 'mlíko' (milk), a traditional Czech way of serving beer, which is almost entirely made of foam. A Czech bartender explains what it is and whether he recommends it.
In much of the world, if you ordered a beer at a pub or restaurant and received a glass full of foam, you would send it back or refuse to pay for it. In Czechia, however, this way of serving beer represents one of the three most traditional styles. Its name is “mlíko” – which means “milk” – and it has recently gained popularity, at least on social media, thanks to an article by The New York Times, in which American journalists try to explain this style, after its surge in popularity in the United States.
Taking advantage of being in Prague, I went with some members of Radio Prague's English and Spanish language staff to the traditional Demínka restaurant in the center of the capital to find out from our trusted bartender Roman what this way of serving beer in the country is all about.
“ ‘Mlíko’ is basically just foam in a half-liter glass, nothing more than foam. It's not ordered very often. Only a few people order it because ‘mlíko’ has a very specific taste. But I must say that not many people actually drink it. Pilsner itself is bitter, but when served as 'mlíko' and drunk right away, it has a sweeter taste. It is said to have been mainly drunk by women. But we do have one customer who only asks for 'mlíko' – nothing else. And that’s a man.”
“Mlíko” is one of the most traditional styles to be found in this country, where its citizens drink more beer than anywhere else in the world, according to recent reports on beer consumption. For Roman, there is only one way to enjoy this method of pouring beer.
“It's a classic thing. The 'mlíko' should be drunk in one gulp, all at once. That is, the person receives the glass, takes it, and has to drink all the contents in one sip.”
However, the bartender maintains that this way of drinking beer is probably the least popular of all. At the same time, he assures that he has never received a complaint for serving a glass full of foam, something that would probably happen in other countries.
“No, people don't ask for it much. Very few people ask for it. Rather, it's ordered by those who know what to expect. They know it's not as bitter, but rather sweet because it's just foam. But really, very few people ask for it.”
Among the few people who order “mlíko” in Czech bars, you definitely won't find Roman, who prefers the complete opposite style, although this is not among the most popular ones either.
“No, no, I prefer the more classic options. I prefer to drink a traditional 'hladinka' or, if not, a ‘čochtan.’ The 'čochtan' is basically beer without any foam; it has more strength and more bubbles.”
At the risk of disappointing readers of The New York Times, Roman is honest about his own tastes, saying that not only does he not recommend the style, but that it is, in fact, worse than other pouring methods.
“No, that's not beer to me. For me, every person who knows about beer, drinks a real beer, a classic, normal beer.”
On our visit to Demínka, we investigated the bartender’s somewhat cynical position further. The bartender guided us through the three most common methods of pouring beer.
“So, first, I'm going to serve you a ‘šnyt.’ This style originated in the 1930s and was originally for the regulars who came to the tavern or restaurant. It was like a welcome beer for them. And when they were leaving, they were served a ‘šnyt’ as a farewell, as a sign of respect for an important customer. Now we're going to make a ‘hladinka.’ This is the classic; it doesn't really have a concrete history, it's just the traditional way of serving beer. And now we are going to prepare a ‘mlíko.’ You fill a half-liter glass just with foam. The idea behind it is that it tastes a little sweeter and is not as bitter as regular Pilsner. That's what it looks like.”
When entering a typical Czech pub, now you know: don't be offended if you get a glass full of foam, although it should only happen if you ask for a glass of “mlíko” at the bar. For a safe option, a hladinka will not let you down. And if you're looking for a style perhaps closer to what you could find in much of the Western world, the čochtan might be your best option.
