Hidden Prague: exploring Bohnice’s quiet cemetery and scenic vistas
In this episode of Prague Off the Beaten Track, we explore Bohnice, a Prague district with a fascinating mix of history, nature, and calm. It’s a place where ivy has reclaimed forgotten graves and trails lead to scenic lookouts above the city. Come along for a peaceful autumn walk through one of Prague’s most surprising corners.
A different face of Bohnice
When most people in Prague hear the name Bohnice, they think of the psychiatric hospital that has stood here for more than a century. But this large northern district of Prague 8 has much more to offer — quiet lanes of the old village, a vast housing estate from the 1970s, and, if you take the time to explore, several beautiful green spaces and viewpoints overlooking the Vltava valley.
On a sunny autumn day, Prague Off the Beaten Track host Vít Pohanka sets out to explore the outskirts of Bohnice, following footpaths that wind between woodland, open fields, and one very unusual cemetery.
The quiet cemetery of Bohnice
A few minutes from the main road lies the Bohnice Cemetery, once used by the nearby psychiatric hospital but long closed to burials. Today, it’s under the care of the Prague 8 municipal authority and open to visitors. The graves, almost all covered in ivy, create a sense of calm rather than sadness. Sunlight filters through the trees, and the place feels more like a forgotten garden than a graveyard.
Among those buried here are 48 Italian refugees from the First World War — patients evacuated from a psychiatric institution in Pergine Valsugana in northern Italy. Most never returned home. In 1932, Italy installed a memorial plaque, financed by Benito Mussolini and unveiled by the Italian ambassador Guido Rocco, to honour them. The plaque is long gone, but a small metal box on the chapel wall still contains earth brought from Italy.
Two lookouts above the city
Leaving the cemetery, the path leads to the first lookout, a small clearing above a wooded valley with a narrow road winding down toward Troja. The view doesn’t show the river, but the layered hills and autumn colours give the place a quiet, meditative beauty.
The second viewpoint, about a kilometre and a half further, rewards the climb with a breathtaking panorama over the Vltava River. From here, you can spot the distant silhouette of Prague Castle, with the spires of St. Vitus Cathedral rising above the skyline. On weekends, locals come here with their children and dogs; on weekdays, it’s peaceful and almost empty — a perfect place to pause and breathe.
A walk worth taking
Bohnice may be on the edge of Prague, but it’s easy to reach by public transport and a short walk. Despite being part of a busy city, it feels surprisingly distant and calm — a place where the past lingers quietly among trees and open skies.
Bohnice at a glance
- Location: Northern Prague, part of the Prague 8 district
- Known for: Psychiatric hospital, large housing estate, quiet nature trails
- Old Bohnice cemetery: Established 1909; now managed by Prague 8
- Italian connection: 48 Italian patients from WWI buried here
- Viewpoints: Two scenic outlooks toward Troja and the Vltava valley
- Getting there: Take bus 200 or 102 from metro Kobylisy, then walk
Bohnice Cemetary link: https://www.bohnickyhrbitov.cz/?page_id=523
