Cool refuge in the city: Kunratický les or "Kunraťák", Prague’s forest getaway

Kunratický les, known to locals as Kunraťák, is one of Prague’s largest and most beloved green spaces. Located in the city’s south, it offers shady trails, wildlife, and even the ruins of a medieval royal castle. It’s a perfect escape from the summer heat — peaceful, easy to reach, and full of history.

Kunratický les | Photo: Vít Pohanka,  Radio Prague International

Prague Off the Beaten Track, we take a walk through Kunratický les — one of Prague’s largest green spaces, known to locals simply as Kunraťák or Krčský les. Tucked between busy neighborhoods in the southern part of the city, this forest offers not only shaded trails and peace, but also royal history, unique tree species, and a quiet place to catch your breath.

If you're looking for a place to cool down in Prague’s summer heat, Kunratický les is hard to beat. Covering nearly 300 hectares (about 740 acres), it’s only slightly smaller than London’s Hampstead Heath and not far off the size of Central Park in New York. But unlike Central Park, Kunratický les is not in the heart of the city — it’s nestled between the districts of Krč, Kunratice, Spořilov, and Michle, a short ride from the center.

Getting there is easy. A ride on the red metro line (C) to Kačerov, followed by a quick bus trip to Thomayerova nemocnice, drops you right next to the forest’s edge. From there, visitors can enter the Valley of the Kunratice Stream (Údolí Kunratického potoka) — a protected area with marked hiking trails, picnic spots, and an educational nature path. The signs are in Czech, but with good mobile signal and translation apps, even international visitors can follow along. Alternatively, you can take the same C metro line to Chodov and find your way to "Kunraťák" on foot using your favorite map app.

Kunratický les | Photo: Vít Pohanka,  Radio Prague International

One of the highlights of the forest is Nový hrad — the ruins of a Gothic castle built in 1411 by King Wenceslas IV. He made it his personal retreat and moved his royal library there. After his death in 1419, most likely from a stroke following the unrest of the First Defenestration of Prague, the castle was never restored. Today, it’s a peaceful ruin with a sweeping view of the forest and surrounding city — a great spot to pause and reflect on how places evolve over time.

Photo: Marek Stožický,  Radio Prague International

Despite the centuries of history, Kunratický les is also a place of everyday life. On weekends, it fills with families, joggers, cyclists, and dog walkers. There are playgrounds, picnic areas, benches, and even a public fire pit. Visitors can spot fallow deer and roe deer in a small forest enclosure, and sharp-eyed tree lovers might even find giant sequoias and dawn redwoods — rare species quietly growing in Prague’s soil.

Kunratický les | Photo: Vít Pohanka,  Radio Prague International

But popularity has its price. The forest gets more than two million visitors every year, which leads to wear and tear: litter, vandalism, and wildlife disruption. That’s why signs remind visitors to treat the area with care. Management efforts are in place to restore damaged areas and shift from monoculture spruce stands to more diverse and natural mixed forest. The city of Prague manages the area under the strict rules of FSC® certification, ensuring sustainable and ecologically sound forestry.

After the walk, there’s no better way to wind down than with a cold beer at the U krále Václava IV. restaurant, located right under the hill with the castle ruins. The indoor space was closed on the day of recording, but the beer garden provided the perfect setting to relax in the shade and reflect on the balance of nature, history, and modern life.

Kunratický les – Prague’s Forest Refuge

  • Location: Krč, Kunratice, Spořilov, Michle (Prague 4)
  • Size: Approx. 300 hectares (740 acres)
  • Highlights: Castle ruins of Nový hrad, nature trails, deer enclosures, unique tree species
  • Activities: Walking, jogging, cycling, picnicking, nature observation
  • Accessibility: Metro C to Roztyly or Chodov and then on foot, alternatively Kačerov, then bus to Thomayerova nemocnice or IKEM
  • Refreshments: Restaurant and beer garden U krále Václava IV. (beer garden), Restaurant and beer garden Na Tý louce zelený
Author: Vít Pohanka
tags:
run audio

Related