Klánovice Forest: Prague’s largest woodland with a dark past and peaceful present
In this episode of Prague Off the Beaten Track on Czechast, we explore Klanovice Forest — the largest continuous forest in Prague. Just on the edge of the city, it offers a surprising mix of deep history, quiet nature, and traces of ambitious plans that never fully materialised. From medieval robber legends to modern conservation debates, this is a place where the past and present meet in unexpected ways.
A forest with a dark reputation
Today, Klanovice Forest is a peaceful escape — a stretch of woodland on the eastern edge of Prague where people come to walk, cycle, and take a break from the city. But beneath that calm surface lies a much older and far more turbulent story.
As late as the 17th century — long before the modern settlement of Klánovice was founded — this forest was known as Vidrholec and was far larger than it is today, stretching all the way to Koloděje. For centuries, the imperial road running through it was one of the main routes leading to Prague — and also one of the most dangerous. The area became notorious for robberies, ambushes, and attacks on merchants heading to the city.
This reputation goes back deep into history. In Ottův slovník naučný, the great Czech encyclopedia of the late 19th century, Vidrholec is described as being “notorious for the raids of robbers,” who attacked travellers and traders on their way to Prague markets. According to the same source, Prince Vladislav ordered the forest to be surrounded and cleared of bandits as early as the 12th century.
From real estate vision to forest suburb
The modern story of Klánovice begins in the late 19th century with Václav Klán, a former court clerk turned real estate entrepreneur. In 1874, he purchased land here from the Liechtenstein estate and soon obtained permission to establish a new settlement, which was named after him.
At first, Klánovice was just a small community, but a key impulse for its development came in 1883, when a railway stop was established here on the already existing main line connecting Prague with Kolín and further east. This made the area far more accessible and helped accelerate its transformation into a place people could easily reach from the city.
After the creation of Czechoslovakia in 1920, Klánovice became an independent municipality, merging with nearby Kolodějské Zálesí. The interwar years brought a period of rapid growth. Architect Rudolf Utěšil designed ambitious plans to turn the area into a kind of garden suburb and spa destination, complete with recreational facilities, a church, and landscaped public spaces. Klánovice gained a reputation as a place where people could live close to nature while still remaining connected to Prague.
One of the more unusual projects from this period was the construction of a golf course. In the late 1930s, the Golf Club Praha moved here and began building a large course in the forest. By 1938, the first holes were already in use, and the project continued to expand. But after 1948, golf was considered an elitist activity, the club was dissolved, and the course gradually disappeared as the forest reclaimed the land.
Nature returns — and shapes the future
Today, Klanovice Forest is the largest continuous forest in Prague and one of its most valuable natural areas. The landscape is shaped by sandy soils, with pine and oak forests dominating much of the terrain. In some places, the forest opens into wetlands and peat bogs — rare habitats within the city, protected as nature reserves such as Cyrilov and Prameniště Blatovského potoka.
The forest is home to a rich variety of wildlife. Birds are particularly abundant — from woodpeckers and owls to a wide range of songbirds — and the area also supports deer, wild boar, foxes, and many smaller species. Despite its proximity to the city, the forest still feels like a functioning ecosystem.
Interestingly, this natural richness is partly the result of history. Areas that were once cleared — whether for agriculture or for the golf course — have, over decades, returned to woodland. That has led to new debates in recent years. Proposals to restore the golf course have sparked controversy, with supporters pointing to historical continuity, while opponents argue that the land has become a valuable protected habitat, including sites within the Natura 2000 network.
Walking through Klanovice Forest today, however, what stands out is something much simpler: birds singing, the wind in the trees, and the feeling of being just far enough from the city. It is a place where history is still present — but where nature, quietly, has the final word.
Fact Box: Klánovice Forest
Location: Eastern edge of Prague, between Klánovice, Újezd nad Lesy, Běchovice and Koloděje
Area: approx. 1,000 hectares
Status: Largest continuous forested area in Prague
Historical name: Vidrholec
Founding of Klánovice settlement: 1878 (by Václav Klán)
Main tree species: pine and oak
Protected areas: nature reserves including Cyrilov and Prameniště Blatovského potoka
Wildlife: deer, wild boar, foxes; rich birdlife including woodpeckers and owls
How to get there from the center of Prague:
Train (recommended): From Praha Masarykovo nádraží to Praha-Klánovice (lines S1/S7), direct, about 20–25 minutes, runs every 15–30 minutes.
Metro B to Černý Most, then bus 221, 261, 303 or 344, total journey about 35–45 minutes depending on connection.
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Czechast, Radio Prague International
Czechast is a regular RPI podcast about Czech and Moravian culture, history, and economy.
