Plzeň – cradle of the world-famous golden brew
The west Bohemian city of Plzeň is without doubt synonymous with beer. It was here that the world’s first-ever Pilsner lager was brewed in 1842. But Plzeň, which has a population of around 170,000 people, has much more to offer than just the golden brew, for instance, the second largest synagogue in Europe or striking interiors designed by the world-renowned architect Adolf Loos.
The city of Plzeň, which lies on the confluence of the Mže and Radbuza rivers, was founded in 1295 by a decree issued by the Czech king Wenceslas II. Located on the intersection of important trade routes linking the Czech lands with Germany, it soon became a busy trade centre and by the 14th century, it was third largest town after Prague and Kutná Hora.
Nowadays, Plzeň is of course mostly associated with beer, the golden brew that put the city on the world map. Indeed, the beer brewing tradition has played a major role in local life ever since Plzeň’s founding in the 13th century, when its citizens first started brewing and selling the frothy fermented drink.
The first written record about a brewery in Plzeň comes from 1307. But it was more than 500 years later, on October 5, 1842, that the world’s first-ever Pilsner type pale lager was created. To produce it, beer master Josef Groll used hops from Žatec, soft water and his own malt. It inspired much of the beer produced in the world today, many of which are named Pils, Pilsner and Pilsener, says Jana Domanická, Plzeňský Prazdroj’s archivist:
“The domain of the municipal brewery has always been pale lager. In the 1920s there were experiments with brewing dark beer and for a short while, the brewery produced a dark beer, called Senator. But the brewery management decided to stick with what the brewery had become famous for, which was a 12 degree pale lager.”
Those wanting to learn more about Plzeň’s beer brewing history can visit the Brewery Museum. Located in the historic city centre, inside an original brewing house from the 15th century, it tells the story of the production and consumption of beer from the Middle Ages all the way to the present. An inseparable part of every visit to the museum is of course the tasting of a Pilsner beer.
Another brand that made the city of Plzeň world-famous is Škoda. Founded by Czech engineer Emil Škoda in 1859, the Škoda Works was one of the largest European industrial conglomerates of the 20th century. For a while, it also produced cars, says architecture historian Petr Klíma:
“The Mladá Boleslav Škoda plant takes its name from the Škoda plant in Plzeň, founded by Emil Škoda. And it was in Plzeň that cars of this brand were produced for a certain period of time. We can mention, for example, the Škoda Hispano Suiza model, the most expensive model of the production line, which was also used by President Masaryk.”
As Petr Klíma points out, the industrial buildings and their chimneys that were originally built outside the Plzeň municipality have gradually become part of the wider city centre and are today an inseparable part of its skyline.
In recent years, Plzeň has increasingly drawn on its rich industrial tradition, bringing its former factory compounds back to life. The factory halls of the Škoda Works today house the Techmania Science Centre, a one-time paper mill has been turned into a concert hall, and a former transport company depot is today a unique cultural compound.
But there is more to Plzeň than just its rich industrial tradition. In 1989, the historical heart of the city, which is almost identical with the original Gothic layout, was declared a protected historic city reserve and there is plenty to see for architecture lovers.
The city’s main Republic Square is dominated by the Gothic-style St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral, which boasts the highest church tower in Czechia. The church is also home to the medieval statue of the Plzeň Madonna, the town’s most treasured artefact.
The rare work of art, considered a masterpiece of European Gothic sculpture, was commissioned by the Teutonic Order for the church in the 14th century, during the reign of Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor and King of Bohemia. Roman Musil is the director of the Gallery of West Bohemia in Plzeň:
“The Plzeň Madonna is not regarded only as a work of art. It has become an object of worship and has always been part of the main altar at Saint Bartholomew’s Church. The Madonna was regarded as a protectress of Plzeň during the Hussite Wars and during the plague epidemic.”
At the start of the 20th century, between the two great wars, Plzeň went through a major transformation into a truly modern city. The efforts were spearheaded by local architect Hanuš Zápal, considered the most significant figure of West Bohemian architecture, who headed the city council. One of his major decisions was to regulate the city’s rivers, explain Lukáš Houška from the civic association Ze stínu or Out of Shadows.
“In 1890 there were big floods and people wanted to prevent them from happening in the future. The Mill Race, which used to be part of the medieval ramparts, was filled. As the river was straightened, it created embankments on which new structures could be built. At that time the area was referred to as the City and it was an ideal place for establishing a great modern Plzeň.”
Among the many modernist buildings you can admire while taking a stroll along the embankment is the former District Insurance Office or Municipal Spa.
One of the city’s main thoroughfares is Klatovská Street, home to some of the city’s most famous sights, including the Great Synagogue the biggest synagogue in Czechia and the second biggest synagogue in Europe.
Designed in the Moorish-Romanesque style, it re-opened to the public two years ago after undergoing a major renovation. Barbora Freund of the Plzeň Jewish community explains what triggered its construction back in 1888:
“The Jewish community started to grow exponentially after the reforms introduced by Josef II. Before that, Jews were not allowed to settle in Plzeň, but with these reforms, they were allowed to come back and build their houses here.
First, they built the Old Synagogue, but it soon wasn’t big enough for the growing community, so a plan was conceived to build this big synagogue that would accommodate the whole Jewish community.
“The second reason was that the Jewish community was quite rich and it was a matter of pride. However, already at the time when it was built, it was, let’s say, over-dimensioned. At the time when the synagogue was built, the Plzen Jewish community had around 1,200 members and before the war, it had around 3,000 members.”
Today, the Jewish community only as around a hundred members, but there are still regular services held in the synagogue, which also serves as a concert hall and an exhibition space.
Plzeň also has another, smaller synagogue, called the Old Synagogue, which lies within a short walking distance of the Great one. It is hidden within the courtyard of the houses in the Smetanovy sady neighbourhood, not too far from the J.K. Tyl Theatre, the city’s main theatre, built between 1899 and 1902 in the neo-Renaissance style.
Plzeň is also the birthplace of the world renowned, pioneering modernist architect Adolf Loos. He received his first commission in Plzeň in 1907 and carried out other projects in the city up until his death in 1933.
Today, visitors to Plzeň can take a guided tour through four apartment interiors designed by the world famous architect, several of which are located on Klatovská Street.
One of them is the recently renovated Semler Residence. Petr Domanický is the curator of collections and exhibitions at the gallery of West Bohemia in Plzeň, which is now in charge of the place:
“The Semler Residence in Plzeň is basically a large apartment house from the 1920s, which is surrounded by a garden. The most valuable thing about the house is not so much its exterior, but the later alterations made by the Semler family.
“Oskar and Jana Semler bought the house in the 1930s and decided to build a very large and atypically designed apartment similar to the Villa Müller in Prague, into the older residential house. From the outside, however, you can barely see the changes going on inside.”
The Semler Residence is also one of the 12 buildings in Czechia that are part of the prestigious list of significant houses and artists’ homes Iconic Houses network.
While on Klatovská you should also pay a visit to the Thank You, America memorial, dedicated to the US Army, which liberated the city at the end of WWII. Every year in May, the city comes alive with Freedom celebrations, which include street happenings, concerts and the famous Convoy of Liberty parade.
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