Exploring Divoká Šárka: Prague’s wild gorge of legends, cliffs, and hidden pools
In this episode of Prague Off the Beaten Track, we visit Divoká Šárka—one of Prague’s wildest landscapes, filled with rocky cliffs, meadows, and forests. Just a short tram ride from the city centre, this nature reserve blends ancient history, dramatic scenery, and local legends. From swimming in spring-fed pools to hiking past medieval hillforts, it’s a perfect escape into nature without leaving Prague.
A wild escape inside the city
Divoká Šárka lies in Prague’s Liboc district, covering more than 250 hectares of gorges, meadows, and woodlands. Despite being only a short tram ride from the centre, stepping into this nature reserve feels like leaving the city far behind. The Šárecký stream has cut a deep gorge through hard, ancient rock, flanked by sheer cliffs and grassy slopes.
According to Czech legend, this is where the warrior maiden Šárka—part of the mythical “Girls’ War”—leapt to her death from the cliff now called Dívčí skok. Archaeological evidence shows the area has been inhabited since the Paleolithic, with farming, fortifications, and even vineyards shaping its history. Designated Prague’s first nature reserve in 1964, Divoká Šárka protects both its unique geology and its rich biodiversity.
Hiking the valley
One of the best ways to experience Šárka is a four-kilometre loop starting from the Divoká Šárka tram terminus. The red-marked hiking trail leads straight into the valley, where the sound of the city gives way to running water and birdsong. The path follows the stream through shaded corridors of willow and alder, with the dark grey buližník cliffs rising above.
Beyond the gorge, sunny meadows open up, dotted with grazing sheep and goats. This is part of conservation efforts to keep the steppe habitats from becoming overgrown. The trail offers sweeping views of oak and pine woodlands, with seasonal bursts of flowers—from snowdrops in spring to wild orchids in early summer.
Swimming in a spring-fed pool
Heading upstream brings you to one of the reserve’s best summer attractions: the koupaliště U Veselíků. Fed by a spring emerging directly from the rock, its water stays crystal clear and refreshingly cold even in midsummer. Admission is 200 CZK for adults and just 60 CZK for students and seniors. Surrounded by cliffs and forest, this open-air pool is lovingly maintained and offers a unique, tranquil swimming experience.
The Devil’s Mill
Deeper in the valley stands Čertův mlýn, or the Devil’s Mill. At first glance, it’s surprising to see a private residence in the middle of a nature reserve. But the property has a legitimate history—it was legally purchased during the communist era by architect’s widow Jana Divišová and her son. Once a functioning mill, it has been beautifully restored into a secluded estate, proof that heritage and modern living can coexist within protected landscapes.
Open-air culture
Šárka’s appeal isn’t limited to nature. The Letní scéna Národního divadla—the National Theatre’s summer stage—was built here in 1913. In its early years, the open-air venue hosted opera, operetta, and drama. After decades of silence, the stage now comes alive once a year to celebrate the birthday of Prague 6. This year’s performance will be Libuše, the ceremonial opera by Bedřich Smetana.
Climbing to the hillfort
The trail eventually climbs past the Přírodní divadlo (Natural Theatre) and reaches Hradiště Šárka, the remains of a fortified Slavic settlement dating from the 7th to 9th centuries. Once covering about 20 hectares, its ramparts are still visible, softened by centuries of vegetation. From this vantage point, ancient inhabitants could survey both the valley and the surrounding hills.
Resting at Džbán
From the ridge, the path descends to the Džbán reservoir, created by damming the stream. Once one of Prague’s most popular swimming spots, the water quality this year has been reduced by algae blooms, with official warnings against bathing. Still, some locals take the plunge. A kiosk nearby serves snacks like utopenec, the classic Czech pickled sausage, along with cold drinks and beer.
From here, it’s only a short walk back to the tram terminus. And if you’re ready to swap hiking boots for something more urban, there’s even a McDonald’s waiting across Evropská Street.
- Location: Prague 6 – Liboc district
- Area: 253.4 hectares
- Designation: First nature reserve in Prague (1964)
- Key features: Deep gorge of Šárecký stream, buližník cliffs, meadows, and mixed woodlands
- Cultural sites: Letní scéna Národního divadla (National Theatre’s summer stage), Hradiště Šárka (Slavic hillfort)
- Recreation: Hiking, cycling, koupaliště U Veselíků (spring-fed swimming pool), Džbán reservoir (seasonal swimming)
- Admission to koupaliště U Veselíků: Adults 200 CZK; students and seniors 150 CZK; children under 15 60 CZK
- How to get there: Divoká Šárka stop, trams 20, 26 from Dejvická metro station, and a number of buses
- Map–4 km loop: https://mapy.com/s/jekocafapo
