The quiet stairways of Malá Strana
Malá Strana is one of Prague’s most visited neighbourhoods and very much part of the beaten track. But behind its busy streets lies a network of stairways that lead away from crowds and into calmer, more intimate spacesand take you suddenly off the beaten track.
Castle Stairs away from the main flow
Malá Strana’s steep terrain has shaped how people move through it for centuries. One alternative to the busy streets is offered by the Zámecké schody, the Castle Stairs, rising from Thunovská Street just off Nerudova. While most visitors head directly uphill along the main route towards Prague Castle, these stairs provide a quieter ascent that immediately feels more local.
They are often confused with the Staré zámecké schody, the Old Castle Stairs, which lead almost directly from Malostranská metro station and feature in nearly every guidebook. The Zámecké schody, by contrast, take a slightly longer and less obvious line. That difference alone makes them noticeably less crowded and far more relaxed, even though they lie only a few metres from one of Prague’s busiest tourist routes.
Artists above the steps
The calm around the Castle Stairs has long appealed to people who valued focus and solitude. Just above the staircase, a plaque and bust mark the home of painter Jan Zrzavý, who lived and worked here for many years. Nearby, Alfons Mucha also kept his studio, sometimes described as his boudoir.
These small markers hint at a deeper tradition. Even though Malá Strana belongs firmly to Prague’s beaten track, parts of it have always attracted writers, painters and thinkers looking for light, quiet and distance from the bustle below. The stairways, tucked between houses and walls, helped create that sense of retreat without leaving the city behind.
Radnické schody: a modest but telling shortcut
From Hradčanské náměstí, another discreet passage appears just a short walk away: the Radnické schody. These stairs connect Nerudova Street with Loretánská Street, allowing pedestrians to avoid the busy square almost entirely.
Short and compact, the stairs dip briefly before climbing again. They are tightly enclosed, with worn stone steps and changing light that draws attention to small details. Halfway along, the route passes under an arch and through the ground floor of a house. For a moment, the stairway disappears into the building itself, before re-emerging into daylight — a quiet reminder of how closely architecture and everyday movement are intertwined in Malá Strana.
From Nerudova to Petřín: leaving the crowd behind again
Further down Nerudova Street, another set of stairs offers a similar escape. The Svatojánské schody, also known as the Johannesberg Stairs, lead towards Svatojánský vršek, near the United States Embassy Prague. Despite their location on one of Prague’s busiest streets, relatively few people choose to turn down them.
Continuing uphill via Vlašská Street, the route passes the Lobkowicz Palace (Vlašský palác), today home to the German Embassy Prague, and the Hospital of the Sisters of St. Charles Borromeo. An unnamed staircase then climbs toward Petřín Hill, before turning onto the Raoul Wallenberg Promenade, a gentle elevated path named after the Swedish diplomat who saved tens of thousands of Hungarian Jews during World War Two.
The walk is physically demanding but richly rewarding. It shows that even in areas firmly on Prague’s beaten track, a network of stairways and paths still offers calm, perspective and a different rhythm of the city — one step at a time.
Walking tips: Malá Strana by stairs
Start point: Thunovská Street, near Nerudova
Route highlights: Zámecké schody – Radnické schody – Svatojánské schody – Vlašská Street – Raoul Wallenberg Promenade
Duration: approx. 45–60 minutes, depending on stops
Difficulty: moderate to demanding (many stairs, uneven surfaces)
Good to know: Wear sturdy shoes and take your time — this walk is about slowing down, not rushing
Closest metro station: Malostranská
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