Prague’s forgotten fortifications: discovering the Baroque ramparts in a hidden park
Tucked away just a short walk from the well-trodden tourist paths of Hradčany lies a quiet green space that preserves a little-known chapter of Prague’s military past. Park Max van der Stoel may seem like an ordinary public park, but along its edge are massive stone and brick ramparts—remnants of the Baroque-era fortifications that once encircled Prague.
A city unprepared for war
The story of these walls begins with the Thirty Years’ War, a devastating conflict that exposed Prague’s vulnerability to modern warfare. The Battle of White Mountain in 1620 ended in defeat for the Protestant forces and highlighted the inadequacy of medieval defenses against powerful new artillery.
In the decades that followed, the Habsburgs launched an ambitious plan to fortify Prague. A ring of ramparts, bastions, and casemates rose around the city, especially on the left bank of the Vltava, where the threat of western invasion was greatest.
Ramparts, cemeteries, and secret views
One of the few surviving fragments of this defense network can be found in Park Max van der Stoel, bordered on two sides by imposing Baroque ramparts and a bastion. These towering walls once formed part of the Mariánské hradby, or Marian Ramparts.
At their base, visitors can still find old gravestones leaning against the stonework—remnants of the Hradčany military cemetery that stood here from the late 18th century until its closure in 1932.
While most of the remaining fortifications are fenced off and inaccessible, one small section is open to the public. It offers benches and a scenic viewing area where visitors can rest and take in stunning views of the park and its surroundings—including the nearby Czernin Palace, the seat of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the rooftops of Hradčany, and the distant spires of St. Vitus Cathedral.
From military stronghold to peaceful park
Although these ramparts once played a crucial role in defending Prague—enduring sieges during the War of the Austrian Succession and the Seven Years’ War—changing military technology soon made them obsolete.
By the 19th century, the advent of powerful artillery and new tactics rendered such fortifications useless. The walls, once vital for protection, had become barriers to the city’s expansion.
Beginning in the mid-1800s, Prague began dismantling many of its defensive structures to make way for boulevards, parks, and modern infrastructure. Most of the Baroque fortifications were lost in this transformation, but a few fragments remain. Park Max van der Stoel preserves one of the most evocative sections—and with its tranquil atmosphere and historical echoes, it’s an ideal spot for those seeking a quiet moment away from the crowds.
Remembering a friend of Czechoslovakia
The park is named after Dutch diplomat Max van der Stoel, a strong advocate for human rights and one of the few Western politicians who expressed open support for Charter 77 during the communist era. His visit to Prague in 1977, including a meeting with philosopher Jan Patočka, sent a powerful signal of international solidarity. A concrete monument in the park, shaped like a shadow of a tree, commemorates his courageous gesture.
Baroque Fortifications Fact Box
- Built: 17th–18th centuries, following the Thirty Years’ War
- Purpose: City defense against modern artillery and siege warfare
- Surviving section: Mariánské hradby ramparts in Park Max van der Stoel
- Special features: Military cemetery remnants and scenic viewing area
- Nearby landmarks: Czernin Palace, Hradčany, St. Vitus Cathedral
- Quiet alternative: A peaceful escape from Prague’s crowded tourist zones
- Access: easy 1 km walk from Prague Castle, Metro Malostranská and then tram 22, 23, Brusnice or Pohořelec stop
