Lamplighters of Prague's Charles Bridge: A tradition dating back to 1847

Jan Žákovec

In addition to the Christmas markets, Prague also revives a tradition every December on the Charles Bridge, one that dates back to the days when street lamps were powered by gas.

Anyone walking along the Charles Bridge in Prague at dusk is almost certain to encounter the lamplighter. He can be recognized by his elegant and historic coat: black, with shiny brass buttons and a red sash. In his hand, he holds a long bamboo stick, with which he lights the gas lamps.

Charles Bridge is the only bridge in the world that is lit by gas | Photo: Jolana Nováková,  Czech Radio

Jan Žákovec knows the history of his trade well:

"I had a suit tailored after the style worn by lamplighters in the First Czechoslovak Republic. This profession has existed in Prague for over 150 years, specifically since 1847. Back then, the first 200 gas lamps were installed, and at that time, five lamplighters were on the streets."

Žákovec is the head of the Gasworks Museum. Every year during Advent, he revives the tradition of his predecessors. Every afternoon, he walks along the Charles Bridge, manually lighting the historic gas lamps. The bamboo stick, an original piece, is borrowed from his museum's collection. With this over two-meter-long tool, lighting the lamps is a quick process, he explains:

"What's interesting is that the flame makes a puffing sound. And when it's cold, below zero degrees, the lamp hisses. It's gas and fire, so it's something alive, unlike electric power."

People passing by often respond to the spectacle Žákovec presents in the early evening with applause. And during the sunless winter months, the gas lamps create a cozy atmosphere.

"There are 37 gas lamps directly on the Charles Bridge, and nine at the Knights of the Cross Square. So, in total, that's 46. The round would usually take about ten minutes. But since tourists like to take photos with me, it usually lasts one to one and a half hours."

Prague's lamp-man Jan Žákovec | Photo: Juan Pablo Bertazza,  Radio Prague International

Anyone interested can get a brief overview of the historical and current gas lighting in Prague from Žákovec. He also has a few anecdotes to share:

"One man once told me that when he was a child, he lived in the Lesser Town, where the lamplighters had their route. After their shift, they would always go to the pub 'U Kocoura' for a beer. But they would leave the lampsticks outside. The little boys would then grab them and run around Lesser Town Square with them."

As recently as the early 1940s, Prague's streets and squares were lit by more than 9,000 gas lamps. However, over the following decades, everything was gradually switched to light bulbs. But because gas lamps lend a romantic glow to the historic center, many streets today once again feature gas-powered lamps. They line the Royal Road through the Old Town up to the castle grounds. To promote this type of public lighting, Žákovec and his colleagues even founded the Lamplighter Guild.

Today, the gas lamps in Prague are usually turned on by computer control. But during the Advent season, people can experience a nostalgic journey back in time.

Authors: Jakub Ferenčík , Daniela Honigmann , Sabina Vosecká | Source: Czech Radio
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