Adam Ondra aims for Olympic redemption in Paris
Professional rock climber Adam Ondra, who arrived in Paris on Thursday, is set to compete in his second Olympic Games. In Tokyo three years ago, when climbing was included in the Olympic program for the first time, the Czech finished sixth in an event that combined speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing. Ondra says the three radically different disciplines in a single format did not suit him at the time. What will be different in Paris?
This time, the climbing program features two separate events: speed climbing and a combined bouldering and lead climbing event. This combination, starting with the bouldering semi-finals on August 5, is better suited to the Czech climber’s strengths. Despite his proficiency in both bouldering and lead climbing, it is in lead climbing — made clear by his records and achievements on some of the world's toughest natural routes — that Ondra has earned his international reputation.
“Objectively speaking, I have to admit that my rivals have progressed a lot and that the level of competition in lead climbing has improved significantly over the last few years of stagnation.
“Eight to 10 climbers can now claim to win World Cup lead-climbing events, and I think the number of candidates for Olympic gold is about the same. Of course, when it comes to difficulty, it always depends very much on how fit you are on the day of the competition.”
But while the lead climbing semi-finals will be held two days after the start of the competition, Ondra will first have to “limit the damage” in bouldering to qualify for the final and then hope to stand on the podium in Paris.
“Bouldering is more a matter of luck, but I'm happy with the progress I've made in this discipline, as evidenced by my results over the last two seasons. I'm more consistent, there's improvement in my weak points, and as this is a combined event at the Games, my weak points will perhaps disadvantage me a little less.
“On the other hand, the Olympic qualifying tournaments in Shanghai and Budapest confirmed that if I'm to be in contention for a medal in Paris, I'll need to be in absolutely exceptional form and to be lucky.”
The Czech climber touched on his form before leaving for France, explaining at his last press conference in Prague that he was still limited in his movements. After injuring his shoulder in mid-June, Ondra says he is ready to overcome the pain to represent his country to the best of his ability:
“If I felt I had no chance of a medal, I probably wouldn't even want to go to Paris. I'm firmly convinced that I have a chance. I know it's going to be extremely difficult, and for that to happen, all the conditions have to be right: I need to fine-tune my form 100%, have a bit of success, and then maybe there'll be a chance of a medal.”
Medal or not, one thing is certain: since his ascent in Norway in 2017 of the route called Silence, the world's first successful 9C-rated climb, Ondra has made a major contribution to the development of the sport in Czechia, where many young people look up to him and now want to climb.
Even if he won't be the favorite at the Olympics, it’s this Adam Ondra, the passionate record-breaker, that the Czechs hope to see perform in Paris.
