Stalin in Prague: A symbol of electronic music and free spirit
For most people, hearing the name Stalin evokes images of the late Soviet dictator and of immense restriction. But in the case of many people in the Czech capital the name has instead become associated with fairy lights, electronic music and views of the Prague skyline. The place where a statue of the dictator once stood is now one of the most popular cultural venues.
For the past 10 years the Stalin Cultural Center at Prague’s Letná has hosted DJs, live music, documentaries and feature films alongside the giant red metronome and graffitied skate park that have replaced the towering symbol of totalitarian oppression.
The center has attracted crowds, from locals to expats to tourists. When I moved to Prague, it was one of the first places I went and fell in love with.
The center has been hosting music events since 2015. It was started by a couple of friends who’d come to skate at the park and saw a greater opportunity for the rest of the unused plaza. It quickly grew into the widely popular music venue it is today.
Jan Faltys, the director of the Stalin Cultural Center and one of the original founders told me about the evolution of the space.
“When we talked about it, it was always the place where we gathered, but there was nothing to keep us there. So when we wanted to get a soda or water when we were thirsty from skating, we had to go all the way to Letenské náměstí or even further. When there is a gap or vast space, we think about what could be done to make it more livable and reclaim it for the people of the city. And Stalin was one of those places.”
But what about the name – Stalin. Why does such a free spirited place share its name with a dictator?
“Right off the bat, if you hear it, it sounds strange or cynical, but if you take a step back, and think about it a little bit more, Stalin probably wouldn't be very happy that people, especially young people, are enjoying themselves in their free time under the sky, listening to music or just, you know, chatting, meeting and having a good time. So, in that sense, we were trying to give it a positive spin.”
The Stalin Cultural Center hosted its first music event of the season late last month as a part of the Cultural Summer at Stalin. On Saturday I spoke to people dancing beneath the colorful psychedelic projections spinning on the side of the monument wall, to ask what Stalin means to them.
Anil Turhan is an expat from Turkey. He has been coming to Stalin for the past 10 years, and made sure to bring his friends visiting Prague to experience the space. I asked him what kept him coming back.
“What I love about here, is the open area, happy people, music, and beer. All the best things in the world in one place. I would say [Stalin] is one of the best things in Prague.”
For some Stalin has even become a generational tradition, Kamila Lhotáková’s mom also partied at Stalin, and now Kamila keeps up that tradition.
“She said it was amazing, she described similar feelings to those that I have. She said that it was something major by that time and it’s still big for us so I think that’s something.”
I also spoke with Rozalie Pecáková who’s in her third season working behind the bar at Stalin, but she’d been coming to Stalin since she was 15. Rozalie said people of different generations come to the monument.
“The people that come here are from all ages. We are usually open from 11 am and grandmas come here for a beer when they are walking their dog. When there is a party there are people from 15 to 40. So there’s really a big range of people.”
Today the unique destination is at risk of closure. On May 4 the Prague City council removed Stalin’s rights to sell products outside of cultural events.
Jan Faltys explained:
“The daily traffic and daily income from people passing through Letná Park was a substantial part of the whole operation. And if we lose that, we are not sure if we are able to continue in our cultural programming.”
Stalin is known for its music and cultural events but this year’s programming is even more significant. The “Cultural Summer at Stalin” not only includes live music parties and DJs from across Europe, but also, a petition and two public debates with city council members and mayoral candidates.
The first of these debates took place on Wednesday, May 27. At the event, Prague City Councilor Adam Zabransky said that rules should be updated within three months and Stalin should be allowed to make sales again outside of cultural events.
Jan Faltys told me it was not clear to him why the city council took this action with regard to sales at Stalin. But regardless of the reason, as of May 28th Stalin has been completely closed outside of cultural events. A second debate will take place on June 9th beneath the metronome, with mayoral candidates.
Jan Faltys urged anyone interested in Prague public and cultural life to come for the second debate.
“It’s extremely important that people show up to show the politicians that they care about this special venue.”
For more Information about the Stalin Cultural Center and the Stalin Cultural Summer go to: https://www.stalinletna.cz/
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