Serenity in a cup

Steel autumn weather has taken hold in Prague with wind blowing leaves down side-streets and rain sweeping down without warning. On Prague's Wenceslas Square you long to be in-doors. To disappear into a quiet tea-room where you will be transported to sunnier climes. A tearoom like Dobra Cajovna.

Serenity in a cup

Dobra Cajovna

One of the first post-revolution tearooms that just celebrated its tenth anniversary and it remains a Prague original: a most unusual space suitable for visiting either on your own, as a couple, or with a group of friends for one of the widest selections of teas, including teas from India, China, Africa and Japan. Come at the right time and you just might find yourself transported to a mystical forest, the sand dunes of the Sahara, or an ancient Japanese temple. Just close your eyes and drink.

Lest some question whether a tearoom belongs in a feature on Prague nightlife - let me assure you it does. In many ways Dobra Cajovna is the perfect place to spend an early evening. Its only drawback is that it closes its doors at nine p.m. Otherwise there's no underestimating this venue where one can have a real discussion for a change - not having to shout above the din - a place where you can gaze teasingly - and uninterrupted - into your lover's eyes...

Dobra Cajovna

It can also be a perfect prelude for a walk on the town, whether you make your way to the Old Town's Astronomical Clock, or visit any one of the city's music clubs. Ales Jurina is one of the tearoom's owners and he explains Dobra Cajovna's mystique.

"In the beginning we opened as a shop, and this place where we are sitting was a store. But, in the beginning people didn't know how to prepare the teas and used to ask us. So, we told them, have a seat, and we will show you how to do it. The people used to sit by these tea crates, and at one moment it happened that someone put glass on the crate (forming a table) and that started the image of this tea room and this brand. Within a few weeks we had moved the store and put in more and more tables. Now, even later ten years you can see that it has remained in the style it had in the beginning."

Dobra Cajovna

It's all about atmosphere and Dobra Cajovna has plenty: low lighting; gorgeously curved ceilings that will make you feel you are sitting in another country. There is even an alcove in the back where one can sit on cushions right on the ground. The walls too are softly decorated, mixing a warm apricot offset with white, plus prints that include a map of 'All the tea in China' and photos from trips made by Dobra Cajovna's staff in the quest for perfect teas from all around the world. And don't let us forget the most important thing for any tearoom of this calibre: the dedication and care that go into preparing each customer's cup.

"We have learned very soon it was necessary to, to travel to the roots of tea: China, of course, Japan, India, Sri Lanka, Turkey is interesting, Kenya. It was necessary to go to the roots."

Finally, when visiting Dobra Cajovna this time around I was reminded of a British acquaintance I once met in Prague who was so off-put by the tea they serve in most restaurants here, he sheepishly and secretly substituted his own. Alas, I forgot to tell him about Dobra Cajovna, where he could have chosen from teas like Tie Guan Yin Supergrade, Kyoto Kinen, Darjeeling, Ceylon Tiger River, and Java Op. Oh well, next time perhaps. As for me, next time I visit Dobra Cajovna again I plan to have a cup of 'Yogi Tea', blending a secret recipe of spices, ground ginger, anise, cloves, white pepper and milk and honey all in one tea for a slightly euphoric effect. Perfect for setting out on a windy autumn evening. An evening in Prague such as this.