Loket is a rather extraordinary historic village situated along a meandering section of the Ohře river not far from Karlovy Vary. Its name translates as “elbow” (or Elbogen in German) and reflects the fact Loket is built inside the extreme curving bulge of this river – were nature allowed to take its course, this village would very likely now be situated next to an oxbow lake, with the extreme bend in the river eroding into a straighter line.
Loket, photo: Dominik Jůn
Having visited the faux-Baroque village of Portmeirion in north Wales on a number of occasions, Loket immediately struck me as a kind of Czech “Village”. That’s the name of the Kafkaesque community depicted in the iconic 1960s television series “The Prisoner”, which was filmed at Portmeirion – and which, curiously, very few Czechs have even heard of. And just like Portmeirion, Loket is also associated with porcelain, having housed a porcelain factory founded back in 1815. But unlike the equally surreal Portmeirion, which was built in the early 20th century, Loket’s history stretches back considerably further – to some time around 1288, according to historical records.
Loket, photo: Dominik Jůn
On one side of Loket is the thick, hilly Slavkov forest, its lush pine trees characteristic of Western Bohemia. To the north-east is the vast Moon-like landscape of a giant brown coal mine that stretches between nearby Chodov and Sokolov. Loket feels like an island out of place in its surroundings. Its fairytale-like pre-industrial tranquility offers a time capsule akin to Prague’s Malá Strana, or Český Krumlov, but in miniature, and with far fewer tourists.
Stepping out at the quaint little train station by the river, my first impulse was to crane my neck upwards. Up to the mini mount that houses Loket and its castle, and up to the vast 166 metre long three arch concrete road bridge that leads into this village. Built in 1936 to replace a former chain bridge from 1835, the vast structure fits in surprisingly well with the surroundings. I walked under it instead of on it and scaled my way up through the winding, narrow streets. Up towards the 13th century Romanesque castle, which includes a museum and even an underground dungeon. Up along the roads which follow a shoehorn course mirroring that of the river. Up to the small main square. Unlike other areas of Western Bohemia, you won’t see any crumbling facades or faded paintwork here,
Loket, photo: Dominik Jůn
There is a Germanic, Bavarian feel about the place – as is often the case in these parts. And the tourists mainly seemed to come from nearby Germany. Like Český Krumlov, there is also a slight sense of unreality about Loket – it’s such a historical, tourist-oriented time-capsule, it’s difficult to imagine living here. But apparently more than 3,000 people do. I walked out towards Karlovy Vary along the river path, and just like that was back in the real world again. Loket is well worth a visit for anyone wanting to ask, like Number Six famously did in “The Prisoner”: “Where am I? ... In the Village!”
